TBLS Eat What You Want Me to Eat

[01/03/10] 

Private Kitchens are such a Hong Kong thing. While in some cities, diners would barricade themselves into the wet bar rather than be dictated to, here we tend to be gastronomic fatalists, ready to surrender our tastebuds to the tenacity of chefs and their myriad inspirations, often with fantastic results.

TBLS (as in Tablespoon) is the latest incarnation of former Duke’s Burger Executive Patty Flipper Chef Que Vinh Dang. The Vietnamese born, New York raised chef has opened a new private kitchen that’s reservation only, dinner only and a six-course set, only. The chef, tired of the city’s shallow fine dining scene, has decided to go back to basics – and take diners along for the ride – with a 12 cover eatery that boasts an expansive, licensed terrace and show kitchen. The menu is playful - the Bacon & Egg Risotto features natural wood-smoked bacon and poached Taiyouran organic eggs - and if it's not a slap in the face of fine dining, it’s definitely a provocative wet willy. The intimate layout also means the chef meets the diner, an increasingly rare encounter in a city that claims food capital recognition. While Duke’s Burgers might not have worked out (it’s closing), getting back to basics by creating a truly innovative comfort food experience might just be the special of the day.

Chicken nuggets on toasted brioche anyone?

TBLS
7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd, Central, 2544 3433. Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm
Tel: +852 2544-3433; www.tbls-kitchenstudio.com
Six-courses, $480 per person

Nuts & Bolts
Playful food and chef interaction at Soho’s newest private kitchen

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