Hong Kong has a lingering legacy of traditional eateries, from the dim sum halls and bing sutt ice cream parlours, to cha chaan tengs, the local equivalent of a greasy spoon. These restaurants captured the moments most fundamental to Hong Kong’s history; they were meeting places, family hangouts, vital parts of their local community for generations, and remain today a major part of the city’s food culture. But even icons can do with a spruce up now and then.
Enter Lee Lo Mei, a colourful, eclectic eatery on Lyndhurst Terrace that captures the best of the past and the present amidst playful interiors that harp to the days when you had all three squares at the same table. Part of a tsunami of openings by the ZS Hospitality Group, Lee Lo Mei is spread across two floors – there’s a cool cocktail bar downstairs where traditional Hong Kong beverages are given a kick into the present, and a fascinating dining room upstairs where culinary director Joe Lee and chef Max Lee blend nostalgia with quality fresh ingredients. The perfect place to take visitors or for a quick and insightful power lunch, Lee Lo Mei’s highlights include steamed cheung fun noodles with sous-vide chicken, foie gras, and black truffle in a rather lavish interpretation of the local classic; flat rice noodles in ‘Swiss’ sauce and A4 Wagyu beef; and baked chicken in sea salt. If you’re just popping in for a drink you won’t be disappointed; the cocktail list by Audrey Eschemann is an ode to Hong Kong’s favourite flavours, and includes the Bloody Victoria, with Bols Genever gin, kaffir lime-infused Shaoxing wine, and chili; and the chrysanthemum-laced N*8 Elixir.
Isn’t history fun?
Lee Lo Mei
G/F–1/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Tel: 2896 1838